Nice: February 2025

Von Winning

Sauvignon Blanc II

Pfalz, Germany

The fact that this estate is crafting some of the very best dry wines in Germany is no fluke, rather a result of nearly obsessive winemaker Stephan Attmann’s commitment to both dedicated cultivation of Deidesheim and Forst’s best sites and meticulous work in the cellar. Von Winning maintains some of the oldest parcels in Grosses Gewächs vineyards smattered across Forst, Deidesheim, and Ruppertsberg. Von Winning practices organic and sustainable viticulture.

Attmann describes his winemaking as “not doing the wrong thing at the wrong time.” The estate’s premium wines are treated with a minimalist approach and with the highest respect in the cellar. Gentle clarification, natural and spontaneous fermentation, and the abandonment of fining agents create wines with a distinctive indigenous and very elegant style.

Here we have an example of truly great Sauvignon Blanc. Explosive, drenched in stone, the furthest thing you can have from New Zealand swill.

Pairing: Baked Camembert Salad

Fun fact: I spent an evening last summer with the winemaker drinking their wines on a boat on Lake Union.

Fürst

Spätburgunder

Pinot Noir from Germany

Move over Burgundy! I think some of the best Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder) on earth is coming from Germany.

Weingut Rudolf Fürst has a long tradition. The Franconian family can document their history as winegrowers back to 1638. Paul’s father, who died at a very early age, had a small farm in the old town of Bürgstadt. He raised animals and cultivated fruit trees, vines and even tobacco, which was once common in the region.

When Paul and Monika Fürst took over the winery in 1979, they built today’s estate buildings on the outskirts of the village. The winery lies nestled in the heart of the Centgrafenberg vineyard with a magnificent view of the medieval half-timbered village of Miltenberg. Because the land was parceled off through the inheritance of successive generations, the remaining vineyard area covered only 1.5 hectares. Family Fürst renovated and re-cultivated the particularly beautiful, steep parcels in the best sites. They gradually expanded the vineyard area to the current 21 hectares.

Pairing: Eintopf, (Braised Short Ribs With Fennel, Squash and Sweet Potato)

Fun fact: Paul is an accomplished pianist.

Terroir Al Limit

Historic

Pirorat

While working on establishing Terroir al Limit, Dominik Huber became entranced with the Priorat’s history – its rhythms of life, the simple cuisine, and the honest wines that honored their origins. When walking past the crumbling Sindicat Agricola in Torroja, he could recall those few bottles of Priorat he had tasted from vintages in the 1970s, and he envisioned a future where such wines could again be made.

Nostalgic and honest in spirit, the wines of Terroir Històric are a nod to the past and the style of winemaking that was popular at that time. Rather than focusing on individual parcels, Dominik sources grapes from many different vineyards throughout the region. These complex blends – dazzling mosaics of aroma and flavor – are an effort to express the Priorat landscape’s diversity.

Pairing: Indian-ish Nachos With Cheddar, Black Beans and Chutney

Fun fact: Horses are the only “machines” used in the vineyards